Current location:business >>
A whale of a time
business34424People have gathered around
IntroductionAt first, there’s just a fleeting glimpse as one breaks cover.Moments later, it’s a whole family. An ...
At first, there’s just a fleeting glimpse as one breaks cover.
Moments later, it’s a whole family. And suddenly, with shrieks of delight from our children, we are in the midst of the great migration.
Kenya is famous for the annual trek of wildebeest and zebra from the Serengeti to the lush grasses of the Masai Mara, dodging lions and crocodiles all the way.
But we’re not watching that show. We’re just off a Kenyan beach, viewing an equally spectacular migration — of humpback whales which voyage from Antarctica to the Indian Ocean each summer.
En route, they brush the Kenyan shoreline at Watamu — and are just one of the attractions at this enchanting seaside town.
Robert Hardman visits the Kenyan coast where he watches the spectacular migration of humpback whales, which voyage from Antarctica to the Indian Ocean each summer
For many, Kenya is all about going on safari. Yet, the Kenyan coast is far more beautiful, accessible — and affordable — than I thought. It is also ideal for summer holidays, as it is the quiet season here, with lovely temperatures.
So before paying peak prices in a European hotspot, look further south.
The East African nation is more of a trek than Spain, but many of the eight-hour direct flights to the capital Nairobi are overnight, there is no jet lag and there are plenty of connections to the coast at either Malindi or Mombasa.
We opted for a week in Watamu, where the days were balmy and the evenings delightfully cool.
From dawn to dusk, we had the full tropical sandy beach experience, jumping off glass-bottomed boats over a coral reef and lying on the sand eating freshly cut coconut.
While the coastal town of Watamu, just 13 miles from Malindi airport, was far from empty, it was also far from full.
Behold Hemingways - a handsome, low-lying property with a huge pool above the beach in Watamu. Robert checks in and declares that it offers five-star luxury at a European four-star price
Pictured: Robert in Watamu with his family
My wife and I, plus our three children (aged 16, 14 and 11) stayed at Hemingways — a handsome, low-lying spread with a huge pool above the beach.
It’s five-star luxury at a European four-star price.
Our Ocean View apartment had two spacious bedrooms and an enormous living area, both facing the Indian Ocean and opening on to a balcony that ran the length of our suite.
Two large bathrooms and a big kitchen faced inland. Not that we were doing any cooking.
Hemingways’ restaurant had a full brunch-style breakfast each morning. Every evening, we had the choice of a buffet or an a la carte menu.
Outside, the chefs were preparing curries or tossing steaks, snapper and stir-fry over fire pits.
We often took a couple of tuk-tuks at lunchtime and headed for the bazaars and restaurants of central Watamu.
Robert bases himself by the beach, from where he views the migration of humpback whales. Pictured: Terrace dining at his hotel
The bathroom and master bedroom in one of the hotel apartments
This place is steeped in Swahili history with its Gede ruins. There are Indian, Arab and Italian influences, too. Browse the stalls for a famous kikoy sarong.
Just before dusk, head to Mida Creek which opens into a huge inland lagoon.
There you can sit in a bar on stilts over the water with a cocktail and see the sun set over the dhows and mangroves.
An unexpected highlight was Watamu Snake Farm, a sanctuary for some of the world’s deadliest specimens, including puff adders and spitting cobras.
Robert finds that the tropical sandy beaches of the Kenyan coast are far more beautiful, accessible — and affordable — than he had thought. Pictured: Turtle Beach in Watamu
Just before dusk, head to Mida Creek (pictured), which opens into a huge inland lagoon, writes Robert
Be there at 11am when venom is ‘milked’ for serum to treat bites which kill up to 1,000 Kenyans each year.
Another popular spot is Watamu Turtle Watch’s marine information centre. The area is a breeding ground for endangered sea turtles and if fishermen catch any in nets, they bring them here.
As Watamu sits on a UNESCO-protected marine reserve, it is not teeming with pedalos, jet skis and disco boats.
You need a day ticket to enter the reserve in a licensed glass-bottomed tourist boat. It’s £12 for a day pass (£10 for a child) plus the boat ticket.
As Watamu sits on a UNESCO-protected marine reserve, it is not teeming with pedalos, jet skis and disco boats, says Robert
The area is a breeding ground for endangered sea turtles like the one pictured here at the Watamu Marine National Park
Hemingways’ restaurant (above) offered a full brunch-style breakfast each morning, says Robert
A skipper will take you out to a coral reef. All boats have free snorkelling kits and life jackets. You can sunbathe aboard or jump in to view marine life.
My lot tailed a stingray — at a distance.
The high point was the afternoon on a Hemingways’ sport boat following the great whale migration. It’s £80 each for a four-hour trip (with drinks and food).
We soon spotted a cloud of mist from a whale’s blowhole. Then the humpbacks appeared, thwacking their tails on the water.
Suddenly, a mother surfaced with a calf, then a trio of relatives, so close we could hear them snorting.
On the way back, our skipper Alfred set up game-fishing lines. I reeled in a whopping sailfish, as long as me with a 3ft spike on its bill. It took three of us to haul it in, hold it for a photo then remove the hook. Then we threw it back.
What a day. What a week.
TRAVEL FACTS
A week at Hemingways costs from £1,659pp, a saving of £200pp with DialAFlight (dialaflight.com, 0207 962 9933). Includes Kenya Airways return flights, seven nights’ B&B in an Ocean View room and transfers. Book by March 28, for travel April 25 to July 31, 2024.
Tags:
Reprint:Friends are welcome to share on the Internet, but please indicate the source of the article when reprinting it.“International Idiom news portal”。http://wallisandfutuna.ultrasupramonte.com/news-36f799960.html
Related articles
Two more people sentenced for carjacking and kidnapping an FBI employee in South Dakota
businessRAPID CITY, S.D. (AP) — The last two members of a trio who carjacked and kidnapped an FBI employee i ...
【business】
Read morePrivate sector to get active support for major projects
businessNation to enhance communication with non-State players for 'real voices'China will roll out pragmati ...
【business】
Read moreXi in My Eyes
businessContact Us HomeNewsHighlightACWF NewsSocietyWom ...
【business】
Read more
Popular articles
- Arizona rancher accused of fatal shooting will not be retried, prosecutors say
- Xi's Reply Letter : A Testament to Five Generations of Friendship
- China launches new sea routes to South America as trade booms
- Xi Focus: Xi Stresses Striving for Full Revitalization of Northeast China
- Chinese business group 'shocked, dissatisfied' over EU raids on Chinese company
- CNPC lead contractor of Iraq oilfield
Latest articles
Lewandowski hat trick gives Barcelona comeback victory over Valencia
Xi Stresses Building General Offices of Party Committees, Governments into Model Organs
Team China runs cold in World Cup warm
Deals lure tourists before Spring Festival
Tigers and Cardinals rained out, will play a traditional doubleheader on Tuesday
No casualties reported in 5.2
LINKS
- 2 Walk and Cycle Conference: Government's transport approach a 'head wind' to progress
- Mirror suits and serenades: The allure of Chris Isaak
- Black mould and septic overflow: What tenants are dealing with
- Coronavirus: People with blood type A 'more vulnerable' to COVID
- Literacy, numeracy tests as NCEA requirement 'detrimental' to learners
- Weather watches and warnings: What they mean and when they're triggered
- Judge Denies Trump Relief From $83.3 Million Defamation Judgment
- 3D printed eggs used in fairy tern rescue programme
- HK records 1st virus death, toll over 420
- Kaimanawa wild horses: Group re